The size and style of your log cabin can be dependent on your budget. One way to make your budget go further is to use a log cabin kit and assemble the log cabin yourself. Most log cabin kits come with comprehensive assembly instructions, and with assistance from friends and family armed with tools, such as: a hammer, drill, spirit level, and a screwdriver, it can be a challenging and rewarding experience for everyone involved.

However, for some people, just the thought of assembling a log cabin kit is enough to give them a headache: so the next best option is to hire help though your log cabin kit company or from local trades’ people.

Once you know your budget, the next step will be deciding what type of log cabin kit to purchase. Log cabin kits come in different packages: some are, handcrafted, and made from whole logs, whereas other log cabin kits are made from kiln-dried logs that are factory milled. Consider the quality and quantity of the wood in the log cabin kit: if your log cabin is to be used for twelve months of the year, you will need thicker logs than if your log cabin was for summertime usage. There are different shapes of logs to choose from, and a common choice is the ‘D’ log, which is round on the outside and flat on the inside and gives a horizontal wood-panelling look within. If you are concerned about the environment, check the logs are from substantially managed forests. Deliberate over the floor plans to determine what will work for you, what type of timber you want to use, e.g. pine or cedar, what insulation you need and your utility requirements.

The typical contents of a log cabin kit contain cut logs for a specific log cabin plan. Each log has a predetermined location in the wall of the cabin, with door and window openings already cut into the appropriate logs. Most log cabin kit companies offer a number of log cabin kit options that contain additional components: cladding, insulation, screws, corner panels, window frames and windows, doors frames and doors, steel brackets, anchor bolts, nuts and washes, studding, roofing and flooring. What isn’t included is: foundations, wiring, plumbing, heating, roof tiles, and guttering. Because each log cabin kit company structure their kit differently, it makes it difficult to compare costs between the companies, unless you can do an item-by-item comparison of the contents of the different log cabin kits.

Before log cabin kits can be assembled, a well-prepared level base that is the same size as the log cabin floor will be required to ensure a long lasting installation. A variety of materials can create a solid base, such as: concrete or paving slabs positioned on hardcore, and it should be 20-50mm above the ground level. Building regulations will need to be considered, for example, if your log cabin is to be located next to a boundary line. Some log cabins require planning permission and your log cabin kit company maybe able to provide advice on this matter. However if there are doubts, it is best to contact your local planning authority before work is commenced.

Log cabin kits do take time to assemble, but the finished product will be something you and your family can enjoy and appreciate for many years to come.

Related posts:

1. Methods for Building a Garden Shed Base
2. Planning Your Patio Garden
3. Enhance Your Garden With Garden Paving Slabs

1. Feature with moving water (fountain, cascade, and stream)
2. Still pond for fish and wildlife (and plants)
3- Self-contained water ‘container’ (barrel, wall, fountain, raised pond) waterfall header

Whichever feature you choose, consider very carefully how best it can be designed into the context of your garden so that it feels and looks right. In this way you will ensure that the feature – and therefore the whole garden -is pleasing aesthetically.

Firstly, decide on the mood or style of your feature, and how it will look as part of the overall garden: it could, for instance, be informal, with curving sides and associated planting to make a natural setting. Or, it could be very formal, comprising a water feature with lots of straight edges and very little planting.

If you are planning a feature that is more complex than a simple hole in the ground filled with water, then it would be wise to produce a scale drawing or plan of the area. This must include all of the garden’s ‘fixtures and fillings’, i.e. the house, greenhouse/shed, immovable and desirable trees and shrubs, paths/driveways, paving and walling, drains and sewers, electricity poles, and so on. Consider also whether you might want to extend your home at some stage in the future; it would be a shame and a great waste of time, effort and money, to install a major water feature only to dig it out eighteen months later when an extension is built.

It is tempting to try to minimize the overall effort when designing a water feature, but it may be necessary to alter or move fixtures to accommodate it, so don’t compromise the garden just to save on effort. If the pond really needs to go where the greenhouse is currently sited, and there is somewhere else for the greenhouse to go, then do it.

The best way to start a paper plan is to conduct your own ’survey’ of the garden. Walk around the house (and any fixed outbuildings) and make a large sketch of the layout, in plan form but not necessarily to scale.

A long, flexible measuring tape is useful, and a good starting point is a particular part of the house, say the back door. Measure the distance from the door to your proposed water feature. This gives you a mental picture of distance combined with an actual measurement.

One stage further would be to prepare several plans, each incorporating a pond of a different shape and size, located at different points within your general garden scheme, but always in accordance with the rules of where not to site a pond. If you don’t want to prepare a new garden plan for each design, simply produce one and then move cut-outs of different shaped and sized ponds within the layout until you are happy with a particular grouping. Alternatively, if you have access to a computer there are a number of excellent garden design software packages that will offer you much versatility in drafting a plan.

The final act, prior to acquisition and construction, is to lay a hosepipe on the ground to form the outline of your proposed pond site. Few people bother to do this, but it can resolve a number of issues and avoid future regrets. Live with this for a few days. You will then be able to make adjustments, and satisfy yourself that this is absolutely the best place, the best size and the best shape for your water feature.

Related posts:

1. Save Water and the World With a Rain Garden
2. Water, Water Everywhere – Water Conservation Is Everyone’s Business
3. How Using Less Tap Water Can Reduce Flood Water

don’t mow

What a waste of time this is. You devote enormous efforts to making the grass grow – watering, fertiliser, weed treatments – and then once or twice a week you chop it all down again. Doesn’t make sense. Leave the grass longer. Or have a wild flower meadow. Do something !

don’t dig

A lot of effort here. You dig your vegetable patch, and then use half of it for walking on when you tend your growing crops. Make life simple by laying out permanent paths so that all your “patch” can be reached from a path. And when I say permanent I mean: just lay out the cheapest possible paving slabs as your path – directly on top of the weeds and grass you can’t be bothered to dig up. Line underneath with plastic fabric if you like to stop weeds coming through the cracks. With this layout you can keep all the little parcels of land loose and uncompacted.

don’t weed

Tricky – you don’t want to fight nature (see below) but it might not be quite right to let the weeds take over. So compromise – make sure that your ground is fully covered by plants that you want. Don’t leave bare soil – that’s what the weeds want

don’t use your own compost

A potential disaster area this one. If you look carefully through your compost you will find hundreds of little white, round, glistening eggs. These are slugs and snails eggs and will repay your efforts to raise them by eating your plants. Make your compost if you like but don’t use it. Better by far to use composted municipal waste or farmyard manure.

don’t use insecticides

If you want a really good crop of greenflies (aphids) then spray insecticide early in the season and wait for the result. You will have thousands of really nice greenflies, which otherwise would have been eaten by the ladybird larvae, which you knocked out when you sprayed. The trick works because the ladybirds are on a longer lifecycle than the greenfly, and their population recovers more slowly. I’ve stopped spraying insecticide, and after nature had time to recover have suffered very little from insect attack – just occasional bursts of caterpillars (pick them off, there’s rarely very many) and aphids on the growing tip of broad beans (just pinch out the tips – it doesn’t matter the bean pods will have already formed below ).

don’t fight nature

It’s a waste of time, and long term nature usually wins. There’s a brilliant book by Mark Winston called Nature Wars which is captivating reading and which covers exactly this ground. But the important thing for you is to able to defend yourself against your critics when you leave untidy patches in your garden. You just say that you’re not trying to battle against nature. And you would be right.

Don’t …………….er

I couldn’t think of the last one, but YOU can. Please write !

Related posts:

1. Garden Paving: Enhance Your Home And Landscape
2. Fusion Garden Decking – Richard Burbidge Outdoor Fusion Garden Decking Components
3. MANY FOUNDATION OPTIONS FOR WOODEN GARDEN SHEDS

As human populations intrude and alter natural settings, native forests and soils are replaced with roads, rooftops and other hard surfaces. When it rains or snows, more water flows from these surfaces than undisturbed areas, carrying oil, fertilizers, pesticides, sediment and other pollutants downstream. In fact, much of the pollution in streams, wetlands and rivers now comes from storm-water (water flowing off developed areas). The added volume of water and associated contaminants from developed land are damaging water resources and harming aquatic life.

One possible solution is a type of landscaping called the rain garden-

WHAT IS A RAIN GARDEN?

A rain garden acts like a native forest by collecting, absorbing, and filtering storm-water runoff from roof tops, driveways, patios, and other areas that don’t allow water to soak in. Rain gardens are created as shallow depressions that:

Can be shaped and sized to fit your yard.

Are constructed with soil mixes that allow water to soak in rapidly and support healthy plant growth.

Can be landscaped with a variety of plants to fit the surroundings.

Rain gardens are one of the most versatile and effective tools in a new approach to managing storm-water called low impact development (LID). An LID project may incorporate several tools to soak up rain water, reduce storm-water runoff, and filter pollutants. Some examples of these tools include permeable paving , compost-amended soils, vegetated roofs, rainwater collection systems and rain gardens.

Rain gardens provide multiple benefits, including:

Filter oil and grease from driveways, pesticides and fertilizers from lawns, and other pollutants before they reach the storm drain and eventually streams, wetlands, lakes and marine waters.

Reduce flooding on neighboring property, overflow in sewers, and erosion in streams by absorbing water from impervious surfaces.

Provide habitat for beneficial insects and birds.

Increase the amount of water that soaks into the ground to recharge local groundwater.

Rain gardens are low maintenance, but not NO maintenance. You worked hard to create your rain garden, and to keep it working well for you and looking its best, some regular care is required.

For the first two to three years most plants need deep watering during the dry season to establish healthy root systems. If you have selected the appropriate natives or plants, then the rain garden will need little or no watering after two or three years. However, watering may be necessary during prolonged dry periods even if plants are established. During these periods watch for signs of stress, such as wilting leaves.

Watering techniques for rain gardens include:

Soaker hoses: Soaker hoses save water and can be covered with mulch to save even more.

Sprinklers: Place tuna cans in a few locations around the rain garden and stop watering when there is 1 inch of water in the cans.

Mulch your rain garden. Check the mulch level every year , 2-3 inches of shredded hardwood mulch should be applied in the spring, or if bare areas appear, more often. Mulch keeps the garden moist and spongelike, ready to absorb rain. Mulch areas along the sides and bottom of the rain garden. This prevents a hardpan from developing on the surface of the garden. Mulch protects the plants in the garden as they get established and makes it easier to weed.

Weed regularly. A nicely prepared rain garden is a great place for invasive plants to start growing. This is where mulch comes in handy; it will be simple to just pull those little seedlings out before they get established. Excavate or pull weeds out by the roots before they go to seed.

Exposed soil and erosion

Sediment flowing into the rain garden can clog the soil mix and slow drainage. Sediment carried out of the rain garden can harm streams and wetlands in many ways, some of which include transporting pollutants, covering fish spawning areas , and filling in stream channels and pools. If erosion persists in the rain garden, too much water may be flowing into the garden too rapidly. In this case, the slope of the pipe or swale directing water to the garden or the amount of water may need to be reduced.

Remember, rain gardens can be an integral part of our storm-water management and environmental approach. Their use doesn’t involve a lot of centralized planning. They don’t require much space, can be fitted into oddball shapes, and can readily added to existing buildings. They look nice, and you don’t need to be an engineer to build one. Anyone can make a rain garden — including you!

Related posts:

1. Perma pave is the world’s first permeable pavement that is eco-friendly
2. Creating A Water Feature In Your Garden ? How To Start
3. Water, Water Everywhere – Water Conservation Is Everyone’s Business

Your garden doesn’t need to be a flower show, a simple landscaping design from specialist landscaping Bristol companies is all it needs to look and feel like summer all year round. With landscaping designers, paving contractors and other specialists working towards making your site looking as it should, you can rest assured that your garden will be landscaped to the highest standard.

There are many areas that specialists can improve in regards to you front or back garden. These can include;

Paths: Through your garden or from a driveway to you front door. Pathways can add a feature to a garden as well as being a practical solution to walking over grass.

Water Features: These can set off any garden. With relaxing sounds and beautiful designs, it is worth choosing the right company when deciding on a water feature because many have wonderful designs.

Patios: There is nothing quite like dinner outside on a patio. Many landscaping companies specialise in designing and constructing the ideal patio unique to each garden.

Paving: Many people find the idea of a paved garden far more appealing than dealing with grass. This doesn’t mean that a garden loses its edge or becomes boring. A specialise landscaper can make a garden spectacular no matter what the layout or size.

There are many options that a landscaper can discuss with you about your garden and a specialist will listen to your wants and needs from your garden. The important thing to remember when choosing a landscaper is that they have  a lot of expertise and can offer you more than you could possibly of imagined.

Related posts:

1. Front Yard Landscaping Lessons – the First Step
2. Paver Stone for Gorgeous Landscaping
3. Turfrite.co.uk provide best services for landscaping in Sussex

Let us start with the entrance, a focal point for every house. A simple arrangement consists of similar container plants at each side of the doorway. If the house is informal, painted tubs will make a cheerful note, while urns or ornamental pots are more appropriate if the architecture is formal. The arrangement, however, need not be symmetrical, since a single container at either side, particularly if the doorway is off-center, is pleasing. A large specimen can be balanced by a grouping of small pots, and various other interesting combinations can be worked out. Sometimes, the front entranceway can qualify as an outdoor place for house plants, but be sure they are not exposed to strong sun and wind.

Unexpected areas like side and rear entrances can also serve as backgrounds for pot plants in casual groupings. For sunny steps, consider tubs of petunias, or dwarf dahlias, or boxes of herbs to be used in cooking. Tuberous begonias, fuchsias, patient Lucy, and fragrant nicotiana solve the problem of what to grow in shade.

Porches or verandas, traditional or contemporary in style, offer numerous settings for pots, window boxes, and hanging baskets. Indeed, the entire container garden can be concentrated there so that plants can be easily cared for. If the porch is open on three sides, it will afford exposures to suit a variety of specimens.

The patio or terrace, beside or beyond the house, where family and friends gather to eat or relax, is an ideal location. If it is formal, select clipped evergreens and arrange pots in symmetrical rows, perhaps lined up against the house or along the edge of the terrace. If the site is informal, make casual groupings of one or two tall plants with smaller ones in front. Either way, allow for a few large plants in tubs or boxes for accent and height.

Container plants may line walks and paths that lead to the house, garage, or garden. They can rest on paved areas along fences and walls and on driveways where they are not in the way. If the driveway adjoins the foundation of the house, plant containers may be placed there.

Tops of garden or terrace walls are ideal places, too. Put small pots and boxes on tall, narrow walls and large containers on low, broad surfaces. Hanging plants of ivy geraniums in the sun and fuchsias in the shade will cascade from walls, as they do in the patios of Spain, Portugal, and Italy. On Rhodes, I recall a fifteen-foot wall topped with a row of thirty gleaming green tin cans full of roses and other flowers.

Think of what you can do with rooftops and sundecks where considerable space is usually available. Here sun-loving plants, like geraniums, most annuals, cacti, and succulents can be grown, but, again, include large specimens for height to give a garden feeling. A few large boxes and planters for trees and shrubs are sufficient but be sure to include some evergreens for year-round green.

Many gardeners like to insert container plants in flower borders to introduce unusual specimens, such as tropicals in the North. Large tubs can be set at the corners and small pots may be scattered among the permanent flowering plants. One gardener keeps a supply of potted pink Fiat Enchantress geraniums on hand to fill bare spots in her wide borders, moving them about as needed. Most of the geraniums are in four-inch clay pots, but there are larger specimens for the center of each grouping. Make sure their secure, sink pots a few inches into the ground.

You can always dress up the lamp post in your yard with container plants at the base or you can suspend a hanging basket of lantana, perhaps from the top. Ivy geraniums in an old-fashioned black kettle are nice for the base. Bare posts that support sectional roofs over patios or paved surfaces of contemporary houses look more attractive if potted plants are clustered around the bases or permanent boxes for plants are built there. Try planting climbing ivy in a pot and train it to climb the posts.

Novelty containers—donkey carts, wheelbarrows, and spinning wheels—can be fun in some places, but, of course, such planters must not be overdone. Usually they are set on lawns, on a terrace or beside a gate or doorway. (If you life in a neighborhood that has a house owners association check with them first to see if this is allowed). Steps leading to a driveway or street or to different levels in a garden can be emphasized with pot plants. A few can be arranged at the top or at the base of the stairs. And, there are other possibilities. Tree trunks cut to the ground or left a few feet high make good pedestals for large containers. In fact, this can be a solution to the problem of what to do with a trunk too expensive to remove. If you have a tree with heavy shade, why not construct a pretty sitting area around it and decorate the space with containers of coleus, wax and other begonias, caladiums, ferns and other shade-tolerant plants.

These are just a few ideas for using container plants around your house and garden. Use your imagination and have fun. Happy Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

Related posts:

1. Planning Your Patio Garden
2. Landscape Gardening – More Than Fancy Foliage
3. Are You Stuck For Landscape Edging Ideas?

Out Door Living Advice

This applies equally to country or city living. While for some the garden is a passion, for many more people it is an “outdoor living room”. It’s a place where children play, families eat, friends are entertained and all types of hobbies are pursued. To have the best outdoor living area, you must first consider your lifestyle, and what you want to do in the garden.

Make Your Garden More Liveable!

For people with larger properties, such as farms or large suburban blocks, try to keep your living, play and entertainment areas away from work and storage areas.
Keep rubbish and compost areas away from bbq and eating areas. (Note: Flies breed in rubbish and compost).
Keep still water away from outdoor entertainment areas (these can be mozzie breeding areas).
Plant mints and tansy near outdoor living areas to help repel insects.
When you build anything with bolts or nails, make sure no bolts or nails are left protruding.
Put metal furniture (or play equipment) in shaded places where it won’t get too hot and scald the children.
In hot climates, check out where cooling winds come from (usually off the water in seaside areas), and leave openings in the garden to catch these winds (ie. Don’t build walls or plant hedges where they will stop a cool breeze).
In cool climates paved areas against a north facing wall will heat up more than other parts of the garden, providing a useable outdoor living area almost all year round.

For A Comfortable Time in the Garden

Provide shaded places so you can escape the sun.
Always wear a hat
In summer and in warmer climates, always apply suntan lotion.
Keep out of the sun in the middle of the day.
Keep your garden clean so you don’t attract pests
Never chance falling asleep in the full sun.
Break some mint or tansy and rub over yourself if insects pose a problem. (Tansy repels flies, most mints repel most insects).
Throw some crushed leaves of mint or tansy around the bbq, or on the table with food to help keep insects away.
Avoid using poisonous plants.
Avoid creating slippery surfaces (eg. extra wet areas or an overused extra wet area in a lawn)
Remove sharp or protruding objects which could be bumped, tripped on or knocked (eg. part of a fence, poorly laid paving, tools left lying around, farm equipment)
Avoid areas which will restrict the cool flow of air.

Buy Outdoor Living products, log cabins and garden sheds at Garden Eco

Garden Buildings

Garden buildings are used for various reasons, including:

Somewhere to escape the heat or rain.
Somewhere to store bikes, tools or other things either for protection, or just to keep out of eyesight.
Somewhere to work in away from the house.
Somewhere for privacy away from the house (some parents use gazebos or shed to escape the kids, and some kids use them to escape the parents).

Garden Sheds
The least expensive type of shed is a prefabricated metal structure with galvanized iron walls and roof. Despite being galvanized, the walls can eventually rust, hence routine maintenance (rust proofing and painting) becomes essential if you want a longer life. Being a cheap construction these have their problems. These sheds are poorly insulated and may not be watertight. Unless anchored tightly to the ground they can blow down in a windstorm or cyclone. These problems can be reduced by bolting the shed to a pre poured, concrete slab which is raised above ground level. A window and double doors can provide useful ventilation on very hot days. Brick or timber sheds are better insulated, and if properly constructed will last longer than a tin shed; however these are more expensive alternatives.

Gazebos
Gazebos are roofed buildings designed to command a view. Open on one or more sides, they may be any shape, though traditionally they are octagonal or hexagonal with a hipped or conical roof.
They may be constructed of wood, cast iron, aluminium or cast columns of cement, with wooden shingles or palings being traditional for the roof, although corrugated or flat iron can be used.
A gazebo can provide protection from the direct sun for outdoor entertaining. There are all types of gazebos on the market today, and your choice is best determined by what you can afford and the style of garden you are trying to create. Remember though, that there may be maintenance involved. Stained timber will need restaining. Painted metal or timber will need repainting periodically.

BARBEQUES

Barbeques come in all shapes and forms, and are just about a must have item in any Australian backyard, even very small ones. No matter what sort of barbecue you have, there are some basic rules to follow in where you put it and how you use it.

Location and Landscaping around the BBQ

Keep it clear of plants which could catch on fire. (Fire resistant plants include Agapanthus, Coprosma, Ficus, Ligustrum, Pelargonium, Populus (Poplar) and most cacti or succulents).
Build a wall or fence (preferably fire resistant), nearby to protect the barbecue from wind.
Locate a table, seat or bench near the barbecue to place uncooked (or cooked) food on.
Outdoor tables and chairs should be far enough away to avoid any problem with smoke, or spitting fats or cooking oils.
Install lighting so that you can see how the cooking is going at night. Be sure that people standing around the barbecue don’t throw shadows over the barbecue.
Put plants which can be used in cooking near the barbecue (eg. Thyme, Sage, Oregano).
Gravel is the best surface under a barbecue, because it won’t develop ugly permanent stains from oils and fats, etc. Concrete and sandstone are some of the worst materials for staining.

Types of BBQ’s

Wood barbeques are appropriate if you live in a treed area, where there is an abundance of firewood, such as in country areas, or you have access to wood offcuts (perhaps from a joinery). They are normally built from concrete blocks, brick or stone. Always remember the fire needs air around it to burn. The best wood barbeques are ones where the fire is on a metal grill raised above the base, allowing air to move in below the fire, and ash to drop through. The hot plate above the fire should slope slightly backwards to allow fat to drain off to the rear. If it drains to the front, it is dangerous and can stain paving, shoes or anything else in front of the bbq. If built properly, with a tall chimney, it is relatively smoke free. Another simple way to build a wood barbecue is to dig a pit in the ground, sit a metal grill in the pit and place a metal plate on top of a few bricks to bridge the hole.
Outdoor Ovens. The “Webber” style barbecue has become very popular in recent years. Using heat beads as the fuel and fire lighters to start it up is not exactly cheap, but it is very easy to use and particularly appreciated when you want to cook a roast on a hot Christmas day. The main disadvantages are that you must remember to buy the heat beads and firelighters, and you must be positive that there is sufficient heat being generated before putting the top on. Most people who own this type of barbecue have experienced the occasional late or cold meal, because “someone didn’t get the heat beads going hot enough”.
Gas Barbeques. Gas is clean and reliable. It isn’t expensive to buy or use, and is instant heat, unlike heat beads or wood fire. The only real problem arises when you don’t check the gas level and run out of gas half way through a barbecue.

Related posts:

1. Garden Paving Slabs; A Great Way To Hardscape Your Landscape
2. MANY FOUNDATION OPTIONS FOR WOODEN GARDEN SHEDS
3. Quickly Improve Your Outdoor Living Space With A Paving Circle

The Fusion Decking Range

Visually stunning and easy to install, Fusion outdoor balustrade injects contemporary designer style into any outdoor living area.

The system can be fitted to most hard landscaping surfaces, from textured decking boards to contemporary paving slabs, or concrete layouts. You can complete the overall look with a choice of either acrylic panels or two distinctive infill option; slatted panels or vertical balusters, available in both; hardwood & softwood.

The Fusion Decking Range includes; Aluminium Rail and Hardwood & Softwood Top Rails, Aluminium Newel Posts and Hardwood & Softwood Balusters, Acrylic Infill Panels, Hardwood Slatted Infill Panels, Softwood Slatted Infill Panels, Aluminium Rail-to-Rail Brackets, Aluminium Rail-to-Newel Brackets and Baluster & Timber Rail Brackets.

Treated Timber Decking Boards are also available at JAS Timber.  

About JAS Timber

JAS Timber is a small family-run independant timber-merchant based in the North-West. Established in 1977 we have grown to supply Joiners, Builders, Businesses, Local Authorities, Schools and DIY enthusiasts.

We supply timber and heavy-side items in Lancashire and the Northwest and can provide same-day or next-day delivery on many of our products. In our joinery workshop, we are able to manufacture items such as staircases, windows, door casings, gates, kitchens and furniture, in softwood, hardwood and oak. We are also able to machine timber and sheet materials to your specific requirements.

Our range is extensive, including – Softwoods, Hardwoods & Oak – Sheet Materials – Garden Decking – Doors & Firedoors – Loft Products – Building Materials – Hardware – Tools – Work Clothing – Joinery Products: Doors, Windows, Stairs, Casings, Radiator Cabinets, Timber Kitchens & Furniture – Stairparts – Plumbing & Heating – Electrical – Fitted Kitchens – Fitted Bedrooms – Conservatories.

At JAS Timber we supply everything you will need in the building trade, at trade prices, which are shown on the website.

Related posts:

1. Fusion Garden Decking – Richard Burbidge Outdoor Fusion Garden Decking Components
2. Swimming Pool Decking – What Paving Material Should I Use?
3. Log Cabin Kits for the Garden

A home’s exterior is extremely important when selling. This is the image that most people will have to go on when deciding whether or not to come and explore the home further. The first step that one should take is cleaning up the yard. Once it’s clean you should be able to get a clearer picture of exactly what needs to be done. Typically if a home is more than 10 years old then it might be a good idea to start with a new coat of paint. This forms a great visual basis for the home as new paint will be recognized by buyers immediately. From that base it is easy to continue with small upgrades to the home itself that buyers will appreciate like new gutters or a re paved driveway. Every last visual aspect of the home should be in ideal condition before the home is listed.

Yards are the next thing they any seller would want to tackle. After the initial cleanup take a critical look at the yard and try to identify what needs to be improved. Cleanliness and order are the most important factors here so get that lawn mowed and trimmed and then set about the other aspects that need improving. New fences are always an attractive selling point or if the fences are in good condition then a simple refinishing can be a great visual upgrade. When thinking about gardens try to pick plants that compliment the home and the colors. Having flowers that clash with the home does not really benefit the sale. You can always find a professional landscaper that will be able to spruce up the yard quite nicely. Take your time and don’t rush these things as time equals outcome.

Related posts:

1. The Importance of Good Front Yard
2. Enhancing Curb Appeal, Part 2
3. 11 Quick and Easy Home Improvements To Help Get Your Home Ready For Sale

Fusion Garden Decking -  Timber Porch Canopies

Visually stunning and easy to install, Fusion outdoor balustrade injects contemporary designer style into any outdoor living area.

The system can be fitted to most hard landscaping surfaces, from textured decking boards to contemporary paving slabs, or concrete layouts. You can complete the overall look with a choice of either acrylic panels or two distinctive infill option; slatted panels or vertical balusters, available in both; hardwood & softwood.

The Fusion Decking Range includes; Aluminium Rail and Hardwood & Softwood Top Rails, Aluminium Newel Posts and Hardwood & Softwood Balusters, Acrylic Infill Panels, Hardwood Slatted Infill Panels, Softwood Slatted Infill Panels, Aluminium Rail-to-Rail Brackets, Aluminium Rail-to-Newel Brackets and Baluster & Timber Rail Brackets.

Treated Timber Decking Boards are also available at JAS Timber. 

Special Offer

The Richard Burbidge Fusion Aluminium Rail is only £30.60 (+ vat) & the Fusion Acrylic Infill Panel is only £48.08 (+ vat).

Apply for a Trade account  and get a discount at JAS TIMBER
Trade account application form.

If you wish to apply for a trade credit account, please download the application form online (under FAQ), complete and return to us at the following address:

JAS Timber
Walpole Street Sawmills
Lower Audley
Blackburn, Lancashire
United Kingdom
BB1 1DB

About JAS Timber

JAS Timber is a small family-run independant timber-merchant based in the North-West. Established in 1977 we have grown to supply Joiners, Builders, Businesses, Local Authorities, Schools and DIY enthusiasts.

We supply timber and heavy-side items in Lancashire and the Northwest and can provide same-day or next-day delivery on many of our products. In our joinery workshop, we are able to manufacture items such as staircases, windows, door casings, gates, kitchens and furniture, in softwood, hardwood and oak. We are also able to machine timber and sheet materials to your specific requirements.

Related posts:

1. Fusion Garden Decking From Jas Timber
2. Swimming Pool Decking – What Paving Material Should I Use?
3. Log Cabin Kits for the Garden